From Kohvik to Kõrts: A Guide to Estonian Social Spaces

Stepping off the plane in Tallinn, I remember the crisp Baltic air feeling both exhilarating and a little intimidating. You’ve sorted the visa, found a flat, and maybe even mastered saying “tere” without feeling like a complete tourist. But then comes the real challenge: cracking the social code. Where do people go? How do you move from polite nods with neighbours to genuine connections? In a country known for its reserved, thoughtful people, finding the right social spaces is your key to unlocking the warm heart of Estonia.

It’s not about noisy bars and forced small talk. It’s about understanding the subtle shift in energy from a quiet, laptop-filled kohvik to a rustic, hearty kõrts. It’s about learning that the most profound conversations might just happen in the steam of a sauna. This guide is for you, the expat trying to find your footing. Let’s explore the social landscapes of Estonia, one unique space at a time.

The Kohvik: The Estonian Living Room

Forget the grab-and-go coffee culture you might be used to. In Estonia, the kohvik (café) is a revered institution. It’s a multi-purpose hub that functions as a remote office, a first-date spot, a place for deep conversations with a friend, and a solitary sanctuary for reading a book.

The first thing you’ll notice is that nobody is trying to rush you out. It’s perfectly acceptable to order one cappuccino and occupy a table for three hours with your laptop. This culture is a godsend for freelancers and digital nomads, a massive part of the expat community here thanks to Estonia's e-Residency program.

The Vibe: Cozy, calm, and filled with the gentle hum of conversation and keyboard clicks. Think well-designed interiors, comfortable seating, and an abundance of natural light. In places like Tallinn’s Old Town or the hipster Kalamaja district, you’ll find everything from historic establishments like Maiasmokk (dating back to 1864) to modern, minimalist Nordic-style spots like RØST Bakery.

What to Order: The coffee is almost always excellent, with a strong focus on quality beans and skilled baristas. But the real stars are the pastries. Don’t leave without trying:

• Kringel: A sweet, braided bread, often with cinnamon or cardamom.
• Vastlakukkel: A seasonal cream-filled bun available in the weeks leading up to Shrove Tuesday.
• Moonisai: A poppy seed pastry that’s a local favourite.

Expat Pro-Tip: Use the kohvik as your low-pressure entry into Estonian social life. Invite a new acquaintance for a coffee rather than a drink. It’s a more common, less formal way to get to know someone. Also, notice how Estonians often maintain a comfortable silence. It isn't awkward; it's a sign of mutual ease.

The Kõrts, Pubi, and Baar: Decoding the Drinking Scene

When evening comes, the social scene shifts. But understanding where to go requires a little vocabulary lesson. Not all drinking establishments are created equal.

The Kõrts: A Taste of Old Estonia

A kõrts is a traditional tavern or inn, often found in rural areas or recreated with a rustic aesthetic in the cities. Think heavy wooden furniture, stone walls, and a menu filled with hearty, no-nonsense Estonian food. This is where you go for a pint of local beer like Saku or A. Le Coq and a plate of mulgipuder (potato and barley porridge with bacon) or sült (jellied meat). The atmosphere in a kõrts is grounded and unpretentious. They are fantastic places to experience a more traditional side of the country. A classic example in Tallinn is Kelm, a bohemian spot housed in a historic building that feels both like a dive bar and a cultural hub.

The Pubi: The Familiar Local

The pubi is the closest equivalent to a British or Irish pub. It’s more casual than a kõrts and is your reliable spot for watching a football match, playing a round of pool, and enjoying a wide selection of beers. Tallinn’s Hell Hunt was one of the first of its kind and remains an expat and local favourite. These are generally the easiest places for a newcomer to strike up a conversation, though it's still most common for people to stick to the group they arrived with.

The Baar: The Modern Craft Scene

Estonia has experienced a craft beer and cocktail revolution over the last decade. This is where the baar comes in. These are modern, often trendy spots focused on quality and creativity. You’ll find world-class craft breweries like Põhjala, whose Põhjala Tap Room is a must-visit in the Noblessner sea-front district. For cocktails, places like Whisper Sister offer a speakeasy vibe with expertly crafted drinks. The baar is where you’ll find a younger, more international crowd.

Expat Pro-Tip: Estonians are generally reserved and won't typically initiate conversations with strangers at a bar. The best approach is to go with a friend or colleague. If you are alone, sitting at the bar itself rather than a table makes you seem more open to a friendly chat with the bartender or a neighbour.

The Sauna: The Great Equalizer

If you want to understand Estonia, you must understand the sauna. This isn't just about getting clean; it's a deeply ingrained cultural ritual for socializing, relaxing, and even conducting business. It's where the reserved Estonian exterior melts away, and people open up.

As an expat, your first sauna invitation is a rite of passage. Don't be nervous. Here’s what you need to know about the etiquette:

1. Nudity is Normal: In most traditional saunas, you go in naked. It’s not sexualized; it's simply practical. Saunas are typically separated by gender. If it's a mixed-gender sauna with friends, swimsuits are common. When in doubt, just ask your host.
2. The Leil is Key: This is the steam created by throwing water on the hot stones (keris). It’s the soul of the sauna. Usually, one person is in charge of the ladle, but it’s a communal act.
3. Embrace the Viht: That bundle of birch or oak twigs is not for decoration. It’s a viht (or vasta), and it’s used to gently beat against the skin. It sounds strange, but it stimulates circulation and releases an incredible, fresh aroma.
4. Cooling Off is Mandatory: The cycle of hot and cold is essential. After 10-15 minutes in the heat, you go outside to cool down—whether that’s a dip in a cold lake, a roll in the snow, or just standing in the cool air. Then, you repeat the cycle.

Public saunas like Kalma Saun in Tallinn, built in 1928, offer an authentic, no-frills experience. Many modern apartment buildings also have their own private saunas that residents can book. For a truly unique experience, look into renting a smoke sauna (suitsusaun), an ancient tradition from Southern Estonia that is on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list.

Beyond the Classics: Other Hubs of Connection

Social life in Estonia isn't confined to cafés and pubs. Here are a few other places where connections are made:

• Libraries (Raamatukogud): Forget the dusty, silent libraries of your childhood. Modern Estonian libraries, like the Oodi in Helsinki, are vibrant community centers. The National Library of Estonia (RaRa) in Tallinn is undergoing a massive renovation to become a multi-functional hub with event spaces, cafés, and creative studios. They are free, warm, and excellent places to work or attend community workshops.

• Nature's Living Room: Estonians have a profound connection to nature. Socializing often means going for a walk in a forest or a raba (bog). The country is dotted with stunning, well-maintained trails. A weekend trip to Lahemaa National Park or even a long walk through Kadriorg Park in Tallinn is a common way for friends to catch up. Foraging for mushrooms or berries in the autumn is practically a national sport.

• Hobby Groups (Huviringid): Given their reserved nature, Estonians often connect through shared activities. This is your golden ticket as an expat. Joining a choir (singing is huge in Estonia, home of the Song Festival), a folk-dancing group, a sports club, or a language exchange group is the fastest way to build a meaningful social circle. The International House of Estonia is an excellent resource for finding clubs and events geared towards newcomers.

A Practical Look at Social Costs

To give you a real-world idea, here's a quick breakdown of what you can expect to pay for social outings in Tallinn or Tartu as of early 2025.

Your Takeaway

Finding your social rhythm in Estonia is a journey of patience and observation. It’s about understanding that connection here is less about loud introductions and more about shared experiences. It’s the quiet companionship in a kohvik, the shared stories over a beer in a rustic kõrts, and the walls that come down in the honest heat of a sauna.

Don't be discouraged by the initial reserve. It's a sign of sincerity. Once you're invited into an Estonian's circle—whether it starts over a laptop at a café or with a splash of water on sauna stones—you've likely found a friend for life. So, step out, order a coffee, and let the journey begin. Welcome to Estonia.